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This Pycnospatha arietina won the ribbon for "Most Unusual in Show" at the 2003
International Aroid Society's Show and Sale at Fairchild Botanical Garden in Miami, Florida.
The inflorescence appears with the leaves, of which there are eventually two. The Pycnospatha
inflorescence lasts for 4 to 6 weeks, which is very unusual for an aroid. It has no
noticable scent.
The leaves are very attractive, reaching a height of about 18" to 24". The second leaf was omitted from the photo, but you
can see the petiole, attractively patterned, behind the first leaf. It's easier to see in the larger version.
I have found this species to be quite challenging in several regards. First, the tubers
are not sturdy. That is, they are very succeptible to bruising so special care needs to
be taken during shipping. A bruised tuber will very often succumb to rot.
I inspect the tubers that I buy very carefully and I wrap them individually.
Second, they cannot be stored out of soil, although I did keep a number of
tubers wrapped in 2 layers of newspaper, in lieu of soil, successfully.
You should not let the soil go completely dry when storing them, but do not make
the mix too damp until you see the tuber start to break dormancy at the growth
point. At that time you may increase the moisture level. Once the leaf is nearly
mature you may water freely.
Next, they
seem to like high temperatures when breaking dormancy, which they may do very slowly!
I grew 5 plants in the 2008 season and they took weeks to produce a fully deployed leaf
from the time they first appeared above the soil.
Next, they don't seem to have any particular season. When this was written,
on Dec 01, 2008, my five plants are still growing
and producing new leaves. One of them is producing an inflorescence now, in late
November / early December of 2008. I have no idea when they'll go dormant! You
may take comfort in the fact that my friend Matt Opel's plants do go dormant.
Do NOT expose them to cold temperatures! I brought mine into the house from the greenhouse,
which I do not heat, as soon as night temperatures in the greenhouse first hit the 50s (Fahrenheit).
Give them a well-drained mix. My own mix is 50% coir and 50% perlite, but beware of
these caveats: I tend to overwater so I compensate with a loose mix, and, I'm growing
in CT where even greenhouse temps seem to be on the low side.
If you have a greenhouse then I can recommend this plant. If you grow on a window sill
you may do fine. If you're trying to grow outdoors then it will depend where you are
located and how you treat the plant. If you live in a cooler location, like Connecticut,
then you have a challenge on your hands. I think it's worth it; it only took me two seasons
to get it right.
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